Haitian Americans savor family, food and memories on Thanksgiving

Editor’s Note: This article, originally published on Nov. 23, 2023, is being republished from The Haitian Times archives to share some of the best holiday reads, tips, tricks, and recipes. 

Probably because I grew up mostly in Haiti, Thanksgiving was never a holiday that I took seriously. I usually just enjoy the day off watching television and playing soccer. 

My twin sister Ruth is not a big fan of the holiday either, usually choosing to work. That’s why she has not celebrated the holiday in four years. But even when she has, as she did in 2019, we had full-blown Haitian dishes on the table. We did not even have a whole turkey, choosing instead to chop it up, just like we cook it in Haiti.

This year, Ruth is breaking our “ Thanksgiving is no big deal” outlook to spend it eating at her American boyfriend’s house. She’s even bringing my 6-year-old nephew, who is beyond thrilled to finally see a whole turkey, in its butterball glory, up close. 

“I’m looking forward to it,” Ruth said. “I’ll make sure to go there on an empty stomach so I can fill it up.” 

“I’ll make sure to go there on an empty stomach so I can fill it up.”

Ruth Chéry

Chery cannot wait to eat the turkey even though, in our experience, it tends to be dry.

The boyfriend, who is of Italian and Irish origin, told her they’ll have mac-and-cheese, pumpkin pie and more alongside the turkey. 

“I can’t wait,” she said.

Well, I took an informal poll. Turns out, Haitian Americans across the country are excited to take a breather from the same ol’ Haitian food. A few of them shared in detail what will make this Thanksgiving special and, of course, which dishes they’re looking forward to the most.

Valery Marius, 57
Pembroke Pines, Florida
President of Valmas Cremas

Marius will spend Thanksgiving at his grandmother’s home in Miami, his first since she passed away in 2021. 

“We’re going back to the tradition,” Marius said. “The memories are always great but we took a little break. Now we’re back to it, I’m sure we’re going to share good moments.”

Marius said 10 to 12 family members are expected to join the dinner. His aunts, who he said are “good chefs” will cook diri djon djon, or Haiti’s famous black rice, turkey, ham, potato salad, lambi and salade Russe, among other dishes. 

Marius could not quite figure out what his favorite dish is since there are so many options.

“We will have great food, a million different things because they know we love these things,” Marius said. “What I’m looking forward to is the Russian salad, which I love. The rice and red beans too with some nice lambi sauce on it. They cook it so well. And whoof, the onion tart.”

The entrepreneur will contribute to the dinner by bringing orange juice, cremas, from Valmas cremas of course, wine, coconut pastries and pecan pie, which he admits he did not cook.

“I bought that one,” Marius said. “I saved myself the hassle.”

Ashley Toussaint, 43
Director of Community Engagement, Kipp Miami Public Schools
Little Haiti, Florida

Ashley Toussaint’s family members have not made red potato salad since his father passed away in July 2020 because his father was the one who used to make it. But this year, Toussaint is hoping to hold his emotions in and cook Elisson Toussaint’s signature dish.

“I know I’m never going to taste his again because he’s not here with us but that’s the meal that means the most to me,” Toussaint said. “But maybe this year I’ll give it a try but nobody can make it better than Mèt Toussaint [Master Toussaint].”

Toussaint has not eaten potato salad at all since his father died even though it’s been offered to him. 

Toussaint plans to visit four to five houses for Thanksgiving, however, his primary goal is not to collect food for the rest of the week but to catch up with family members. He plans to go to his mother’s house, Aunt Marie, Aunt Linda and possibly more.

“The food is okay but for me it’s more about making sure you take the time to say thank you to the people that raised you,” Toussaint said. 

Toussaint and his relatives usually talk about how Little Haiti has changed over years, how the children in the family are getting older and bigger, their own childhood and more.

Some of the dishes Toussaint will eat at the different households are Haitian mac-and-cheese, ham, sweet potato pie, griyo, rice and peas and more. As for drinks, Toussaint might have lemonade, wine and cremas.

Toussaint also hosts another Thanksgiving dinner days after the holiday, the Annual Family and Friends First Thanksgiving, which is in its ninth edition.

Alix Desulme, 45
Mayor of North Miami
Miami, Florida

As part of his job, Desulme will attend North Miami’s 48th Annual Winternational Thanksgiving Day Parade. Later in the day, he will catch a 2 p.m. flight to Washington D.C. to finish celebrating Thanksgiving at his older sister’s house. He has not spent Thanksgiving with her and her family in five years.

“It takes a lot to get me excited, but I kind of am to be with them on Thanksgiving,” Desulme said. “A little different time to spend with the family with their friends and all that good stuff.”

The dish he is looking forward to the most is the whole turkey that family members have been seasoning since Sunday. Desulme’s sister’s household will also serve Haitian style turkey and fried turkey.

“You know it’s an American holiday, so I prefer the whole one,” Desulme said. “You know, the Haitian [way], we eat it all year long but the whole one, that’s the only time of the year we eat it, Thanksgiving and Christmas.”

In addition to the food, Desulme is looking forward to the conversations with his family members. Although Desulme is a politician he said he and his family usually stay away from talking about politics and negative news out of Haiti to keep the mood up.

“I’m thankful for life, thankful for health and everything that’s going on in the world,” Desulme said. “Thank you to everyone for their prayers and their support throughout the years. This is a good time for us to be with our family and enjoy another Thanksgiving.”

Mecca “Grimo” Marcelin, 50
Cultural promoter
Margate, Florida

Mecca “Grimo” Marcelin will celebrate Thanksgiving for the first time at his younger brother’s new house in Miramar, Florida, alongside about 30 family members.

“I worked on that house. I put tiles, wood floors, painted it, broke walls, so it’s going to be special for me,” Marcelin said. “It’s going to be special for the family because they’re going to see that a kid who grew up in the family has his own house now.”

Marcelin said more than likely the only dish that will not be Haitian on the table will be the whole turkey as they will serve diri djon djon, griyo, rice and peas with chicken and more. Marcelin is tasked to bring a Haitian style mac-and-cheese and sweet potato salad, however his favorite Thanksgiving dish is diri djon djon.

“Diri djon djon, that’s my rice right there,” Marcelin said. “The real diri djon djon, I don’t do rice and peas or white rice at all. Diri djon djon is all mine.”

Pierre Paul, 38
Uber driver
Connecticut 

Paul’s Thanksgiving will be special because he will get more clients from driving Uber, helping him earn more money during the busy day. Several other Haitian-Americans will also be working on Thanksgiving, taking opportunities of the time and a half or double time pay on holidays.

Although he is not celebrating the holiday this year, Paul’s favorite Thanksgiving dish is lasagna. He likes it with meat inside.

“If I can eat only one thing, lasagna would be it,” Paul said. 

What struck me in this poll is the mention of the memories made around Thanksgiving, like the one Toussaint mentioned of his dad.

As for me, I’m in Haiti now, so celebrating Thanksgiving is even more out of my world now. I will probably just eat rice and beans with chicken while scrolling on my phone. It’s all good though. Perhaps, next year.

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